A young Vosne ready to rock you

About 2 weeks ago we decided to open a 2004 Meo Camuzet Vosne, Les Chaumes for a dinner with friends.

Les Chaumes, a 1er Cru, is located at the foot of La Tâche and Les Malconsorts, in a slightly deeper clay soil. Vines were planted in the late 50s and 70s. With its classic eastward orientation and good supply of water, it is a fairly solar vineyard which cannot be considered as a late ripener.

According to Jean-Nicolas Meo, this climat shows well even young thanks to its finesse. There's no need to worry about finesse, and in this case, the vinification requires a little more extraction in order to push the wine to its limits. The cap will be broken up more often and the vatting temperatures will be a little higher.

I was super excited to try this Vosne as I'm a big fan of Meo's wines even though sometimes I wish they would lower the amount of wood.

The wine offers a stunning nose which is screaming Vosne. Tobacco, spice, red fruits, floral with the slightest touch of oak.
This was really drinking well, even though the last drops the next day (still don't know how we managed to save half a glass!) had shut down.
Very good ripeness, elegant and med+ acidity, it's pure silk on your palate and the finish is very impressive.
A beautiful Vosne which I think will improve over the next few years.

Interestingly enough, Jean-Nicolas adds that Les Chaumes gives you a pretty good idea of the vintage. I would agree completely here. Even though this 2004 vintage has been (ridiculously) criticized and hammered like hell in the US because of what idiots call 'mean greenies", all the 04 I had showed a nice balance and fruit. Is it the best vintage ever? Certainly not but again only idiots want the same wine year after year...

Finally a good 2007 Chateauneuf !

While I have obviously not tasted every 2007 Chateauneuf du Pape, the several ones I tried left me wondering. Wondering what the winemakers were trying to achieve, beside getting 12583 points from Uncle Bobby. Indeed, over the top, over alcoholic, over everything to my taste, I think I can count on one hand the ones I liked (try Charvin, Vieux Donjon, Vieux Telegraphe).

Monpertuis is not a domain I was very familiar with so I was intrigued and impatient to try this baby. Even more that Philippe Cambie, the Michel Rolland of Chateauneuf, have been consulting for them since 2000. Did he push them to make more modern wines? riper and smoothier?

Well, you have to applaud such a good effort from Paul Jeune and his son Simon. The 2007 Monpertuis Chateauneuf Classique was beautiful, singing in Provencal all the way.

Grapes are coming from various terroirs: from sandy soils to rocky to calcareous and clay soils.
Using around 70% Grenache and from Syrah, Mourvedre, Cinsault and other varieties.
For this cuvée all the grapes are destemmed before fermentation in cement tanks.
The wine is then aged for a period in large foudres (50 to 70 hl) and barriques (225l) which are usually from 2 to 5 years old.

Obviously young, it is already balanced. Very fresh nose, especially for a 2007, with raspberry, strawberry and garrigue. A little darker fruits on the palate, it stays balanced. Never jammy, med acidity, this is very promising.Structured, firm tannins on the very long finish. Fruit forward right now, this should age very well. Bravo !

Don't read that post...or be ready to cry..!

Last weekend a friend brought a 1983 Domaine de Courcel Pommard Rugiens.
It was my 1st 1983 Burgundy and it was really interesting. From what I read, 1983 was really hot and difficult year, totally dismissed by american critics (what's new?).
This Rugiens was showing exactly like the vintage itself. Rich, sweet red fruits. Still alive even if the acidity is towards the low end. Rustic, a touch of iron and earthy but thanks to the sweet fruits and smooth tannins, this is a wine you could actually drink on itself, even after 27 years (I usually find old wines to be much better with food)! Of course, food completes the wine.


But actually what striked me the most was a little label in the back of the bottle. This tiny little red label with the price of this Rugiens...




Yes, $19.95....not even $20!

By the way, current 2007 release goes for $86....Go figure....

Jean Mâcle Côtes du Jura 2006

After having the 2005 not so long ago, we decided to open the 2006 this time, again with aged gouda.
This 2006 showed a perfect balance, pure silk on the palate. Seemed a little less oxidative and maybe less acidity than the 2005 but still with a nice nuttiness with spices and a super long finish.
Man, this is GOOD !!

Champagne Blind tasting

With temperatures approaching 100F, we all gathered home to taste blind some Champagne. Great tasting, fun night. And thanks God we did not choose Napa Cabs on a day like this.
Note: Flower day during the tasting.

A few generic info on Champagne: located very close to Paris (150Km)and spread over 5 departments: Marne (67%), Aube (22%), Aisne, Haute-Marne and la Seine-et-Marne.

We officially differentiate 4 main zones: Montagne de Reims, Vallée de la Marne, Côte des blancs, Côte des Bar.
17 villages are designated Grand Cru and 44 Premier Cru.

Before starting, we tried 2 wines, tasted double blind:

2007 Kanonkop Estate Pinotage (Stellenbosh, South Africa): Oaky and a touch of heat on the nose (as well as on the finish). Med tannins, soft. Ripe cherry, blackberry and plum. Spices.
Ok but too much oak and alcohol.
Initially thought an Aussie shiraz and then went for Argentinian malbec...
2006 Pierre-Marie Chermette Moulin-à-Vent Les Trois Roches: Purplish. Ripe fraise des bois, blueberry and cherry. A little candy like and extracted.
Correctly guessed Chermette, Moulin 2006 as this is a wine I had last Feb.
Not my cup of tea as I found it a little too extracted and fruit fwd.

Back to Champagne now:
We went through 2 flights, all tasted blind.

1st Flight


Varnier-Fanniere Champagne Brut Blanc de Blancs Cuvée St. Denis (Avize)

Wow...Very complex with interesting savory notes mixed with minerals.
Powerful, lots of depth, brioche and fresh dough with a long finish.
I though this was 100% PN and this is 100% Chard!...Vines are 65 years old and come from a single vineyard in Avize called “le Clos du Grand Père”. A spectacular champagne for the price.
Disgorged 9/5/2007

L. Aubry Fils Champagne Brut 1er Cru (Petite Montagne de Reims)

Oxidative style, hint of butter and truffles on the nose. Very yeasty and lemon notes, the finish is a little heavy. Not bad but I'd like to see more acidity.
Disgorged Dec 2009.
Meunier 60%, Pinot noir 20%, Chardonnay 20%.

Billiot Fils Champagne Brut Réserve (Ambonnay)

Initially tight, it really blossomed with air.
Although this cuvee do not see any oak, you have the impression of a little bit of oak on the nose. Then some lemon and green apple, yeast. Round and vinous but very good acidity, light coffee and brioche notes.
Disgorged June 24th 2009.
Needs a 2-3 years to come around.

2nd Flight


2000 Drappier Champagne Grande Sendrée (Cote des Bar)

Tight but with a lot of substance underneath. Light oak, powerful and full body, this clearly needs time.
I had many different vintages of the Grande Sendree, but never that young, and this will only gain complexity and depth with more years.

2000 Marguet Père et Fils Champagne Grand Cru Brut (Ambonnay)

Man, talk about an interesting nose: tabasco, cheese cracker, butter. Big.
Oxidative style, opulent palate. Majority of PN.
Not really my style as this is too big and no zip.

N.V. Pierre Peters Champagne Blanc de Blancs Brut Cuvée de Réserve (Le Mesnil Sur Oger)

Well unfortunately this bottle was probably off. A few people among us already had several times this champagne and none of us recognised it. No Mesnil character, very fruit forward, smoky, it lacks the depth and elegance that Pierre Peters always have.

Overall a very good champagne tasting with different styles among them. I'm really bummed about the Peters which is one of my favorite.
A very good surprise with the Varnier-Fanniere, a really complex NV champagne at a very good price.
Quite a few champagne with an oxidative style. I remember listening to Selosse saying that this is old school champagne, like they were doing 100 years ago. This is to have good acidity and fruit to absorb the oak.
Also, interesting to note that, as my wife said, that among those champagnes, none were showing floral and mineral notes (although we had wines from Avize and Le Mesnil).

Arianna again

During my short trip back home to Paris last May, I got lucky as Les Caves Augé (super wine shop, 116 Boulevard Haussmann) was having an outdoor tasting with some great winemakers pouring their wines.

Among them, Antoine Arena sons from Morta Maio in Corsica. It was cool to taste again their wines which will be the subject of another post pretty soon.

Also among the winemakers, Arianna Occhipinti from Vittoria in the southern part of Sicily. Her uncle is the owner of the famous COS winery and she is now, rightfully, probably as famous as her uncle Giusto.



It was great to talk to this young women, full of energy and passion, just like her wines. The 1st bottle from Arianna I had was a revelation and since then, every bottles have been as great and exciting as the 1st.


While a lot of Sicilian wines are just caricatures, Arianna's wines are models for purity, balance and freshness. How many Sicilian reds are below 13% while offering a perfect ripeness and acidity? Thanks God people such as Arianna, COS and a few more respect and showcase the Sicilian terroirs and native grapes. No new barrel here, only old ones that Arianna buys in Piedmont. Respect of the soil and the grapes is essential for her.


The 1st wine Arianna was pouring was her 2008 Rosso Vittoria SP68, a blend of Frappato and Nero d'Avola, named after the highway by her azienda. Easy to drink, fruit forward with a hint of spices, perfect for lunch under the sun.

Next was the 2007 Il Frappato. I know I already talked about it in a previous post here, but again this showed a beautiful purity and freshness with flagrant flowery and red fruits notes. Surprisingly more evolved than the bottles I had here, it was still a really great wine.

Last was her 2007 Siccagno Nero d'Avola. A little more meaty and more masculine, more stewed fruits (but never jammy), this needs a little more time but showed great potential and is already quite delicious and complex.

Overall a great tasting and opportunity to meet and talk to Arianna. I can not wait to try her wines in the future vintages as her vines get older.
It also was a good surprise to see her wines available in Paris (Lavinia, Caves Augé) and would urge anyone to try them very soon.


Bonne degust' !



PS: check out her website and blog.

A battle of Giants: Hermitage vs Côte-Rôtie

I was really excited for this blind tasting. Everyone was asked to bring a bottle of Hermitage or Côte-Rôtie.
All the wines were tasted blind, on a day not at all favorable on the biodynamic calendar.

A few notes of importance on those majestic 2 AOC.

Hermitage


Vineyards: these are spread over 3 communes in the Drôme: Tain-l’Hermitage, Crozes-Hermitage and Larnage on the right bank of the Rhône.

Soil types: comprised of granitic gravel covered with a layer of micaschist and gniess, with areas of round alluvial stones (this diversity accounts for the named villages within the Appellation: Bessards, Greffieux, Méal, Rocoule, Beaumes etc.).

Area under cultivation (2009 date) : 134 hectares, yearly production: 4363 hl, basic yield: 26 hl/hectare

Grape variety mix: Syrah for the red wines (15% Marsanne and Roussanne content is permitted).

Côte-Rôtie

Vineyards: these are spread over 3 communes on the right bank of the Rhône: Saint-Cyr-sur-Rhône, Ampuis and Tupin-Semons in the French Department of the Rhône.

Soil types: very steep granitic terraces covered with a layer of sand-lime on the "Côte blonde" (pale slopes) and clay and iron oxide on "Côte brune" (brown slopes).

Area under cultivation (2009 data): 253 hectares, yearly production: 10 603 hl, basic yield : 42 hl/hectare.

Grape variety mix: at least 80% Syrah, with an authorised maximum of 20% Viognier

All info taken from the great inter Rhone website.

Now the wines tasted.

1st Flight

2001 Domaine Jasmin Côte-Rôtie

Great nose with sausage, a little mint, smoke. With air, nose becomes even more interesting with tarry and mineral notes. Red fruits with some cassis, it is elegant and somewhat light for an 01.
It showed best the next day but still I would not keep this wine another 20 years. To drink over the next 10.
Very enjoyable.

2006 Gaec-Gallet Henri et Phillippe Côte-Rôtie
Candy like nose: sweet violet.Smoky with nice raspberry notes, it's fresh with a good structure.
Nevertheless, it is a little bit too candy like for me. Certainly not a bad wine but it does not thrill me at all.

2003 Bernard Levet Côte-Rôtie La Chavaroche
Totally opaque. Started very jammy, almost New World like with grippy tannins and a touch of heat.
On the positive side, it constantly evolved with air to become a little more civil with smoky and savory note. Still it definitely showed the vintage with stewed fruit.

2nd flight

1988 Domaine Jasmin Côte-Rôtie

Corked. Too bad.

1996 Bernard Chave Hermitage
Brickish rim, nice nose of smoky bacon, violet. Contrary to the Delas, it plays on the red fruits with a high acidity, typical of the vintage. Very floral, cherry and strawberry notes, it slowly got better with air. Nevertheless I think now is a good time to drink it, may even have been a little more focused a few years ago.
Overall a well made, elegant Hermitage with finesse.

1989 Bernard Burgaud Côte-Rôtie
Very nice nose with a herbal note (thyme), olives and ink. Complex.
On the palate it shows young and ripe fruit. What a surprise when the wine was revealed and the vintage.
We all went guessed a young CR or even Hermitage.
This is a wine far from being ready.

3rd flight

1999 Domaine de Bonserine Côte-Rôtie Côte Brune

Very dark and almost opaque. Weird nose of cheese cracker. Dark fruits with coffee and showing some oak.
Palate shows a similar profile. On the modern side of the appellation. Probably my least favorite.

2006 Domaine Auguste Clape Cornas Renaissance
The pirate in our tasting.
On the 1st night, it showed anything but like a syrah. Definitely more grenache like.
Raisins, dark fruits with dry fruits and figs. Big and ripe but never alcoholic, it's round and soft, velvety but with grippy tannins on the finish.
A big disappointment.
The next day, this was a totally different wine. Still full bodied with ripe fruits, it offered deep floral notes with brighter fruit.
Really an interesting wine but that needs a few years to calm down. I'm really glad I got the chance to try it the next day.

1998 Delas Frères Hermitage Marquise de la Tourette

The nose is polished. Dark fruits, prunes, a light touch of oak. Some typical smoke and olives (very light though) notes. Med body with a good structure, round, you can sense everything is there to make this wine a great one but it needs more time. A little reticent on the mid palate and more simple than the nose. Well balanced with good acidity, the long finish is promising.

Overall a great tasting. All the wines showed an obvious sense of place and terroir. There is still, especially in Hermitage, a respect for classic wines without over extraction and oak. Amazingly, all the wines, except the 2003 Levet, were either 12.5 or 13%.

Classic flavors such as smoke, olives and bacon were often present and the wines showed nice complexity.

Prices, even if they are not as stupid as in other regions, are high but production is quite low, harvest is done by hand because of the steep slopes so I can not really protest against the prices.