Domaine Barmès Buecher

Last November François Barmès was in Chicago and took some time to explain us his philosphy and taste with us a few of his wines. I've always been a big fan and meeting François was a treat.

The domain was created in 1985 by Geneviève (born Buecher) and François. The vineyards had been in their families since the 17th century. Ten years later, they converted the domain to biodynamics. At harvest, each varietal is harvested separately and picked by hand. Of course, only wild yeasts are used and absolutely no additives is permitted in the wines. François is a hard core and passionated for biodynamics and fully dedicated towards it. Wines are racked when the moon is descending and then bottled after a very light filtration.
The domain has been certified as biodynamic since 1998 and member of Biodyvin since 2002. They also are member of the "Renaissance des Appelations" (created by Nicolas Joly) since 2007.

While listening to François you could sense his passion. I did not have time to go through all the wines as I discussed with him for quite some time (he does not speak English and I was the only French). His father was not happy at all when François decided to convert to biodynamics and the magic thing was when he admitted that whenever he does not feel good, he just goes for a walk in his vineyards and resource himself.

All the wines shows a tremendous acidity and droiture.

2008 Pinot Noir Vieilles Vignes Hengst

54 years old vines on marly limestone soil. 24 months in new barrels. The white marl helps to retain some acidity and the southern exposure of the Hengst vineyard gives the ripeness to the pinot. The vines here come from the Angerville Clos des Ducs parcel in Burgundy (Geneviève nanny was related to the Angerville or something like this...can't remember exactly!) . A lot of spices and strawberry. Slightly candied.

2007 Riesling Clos Sand

Young vines (9 years) on granitic soil. Delicious. Rock water with some lime and citrus. Totally dry and an apparent minerality and high acidity. Love it.

2008 Riesling Grand Cru Hengst

30 years old vines and marly limestone soil. Higher yield than the Clos Sand. Shows more ripeness than Clos Sand (southern exposure) with some honey notes. Again those mineral notes and high acidity. The finish is exotic but always fresh and energetic. Dry.

2008 Pinot Gris Rosenberg

21 years old vines. François says that because the PG is usually a round with butter notes, relatively neutral varietal, he uses barrels here for the oxydation of the pinot gris and develop the aromatics. Botrytis is also always present.

Some honey, lime and wood on the nose. Exotic fruits. Rich and sweet with more mango on the palate. Nice floral notes to add complexity. Needs time but already not heavy and digest.

2008 Gewurtztraminer Grand Cru Steingrubler

30 years old vines, marly limestone with granite as well.
Rose Turkish delight and violets. Sweet and a little forward right now. Some orange notes. The wine avoids showing too much of the grape usual exuberance which is a good thing. This is not another varietal caricature.

Merci François !