A few Extra-Bruts

For some reasons, the last 3 champagnes I had were all Extra-Brut. Very interesting as all 3 managed to have very different styles and texture.


Ulysse Collin Extra Brut Blanc de Blancs
Very light bubbles, this is more a wine than a Champagne. Very mineral, a touch of wood, not a lot of fruit (hint of green apple/lemon). I really like the austerity and focus of this Champagne. Long finish. Very subtle.
Olivier Collin, is located in Congy in the Sézannais, south of the Côte des Blancs. While waiting to get some of his family's land back, he did an internship at Selosse in 2001 and this had a huge influence on the way he works now. Carefully taking care of his vines, using no chemicals, it seems Olivier is ready to try new directions such as organic or biodynamic certification (maybe?). As his master, Olivier makes his fermentation and malo in barrels.


Marie-Noelle Ledru Grand Cru Extra Brut
I really enjoyed this one. 85% pinot and 15% Chardonnay. This is very elegant and very steely. You can definitely tell there is no dosage. A little bit austere with lively mousse, there's a hint of red fruits with lemony notes. With air, more yeasty/brioche notes.

Marie-Noelle, in Ambonnay, does everything in her cellar but also in the office: multi-tasking for sure ! Trying to work as natural as possible, no chemicals in the vineyards and no sulfur added after disgorgement. All her Champagnes are really showing the beautiful terrroir they come from. Unlike the other 2 producers here, she does not use any wood.

Vouette et Sorbée Extra Brut Fidèle
Based on 2007 vintage and disgorged in December 2009. 100% pinot noir.
Not easy to approach, it is nevertheless a fascinating Champagne. Wonderful nose with some wood notes and spices. There's also a nice chalkiness. Not a lot of bubbles, mineral on the palate with again some light oak notes. Not a ton of fruit even though this is 100% pinot. This is quite elegant and not very exuberant but rich as the same time. It's an experience hard to describe.
I'd like to try one with a little more age but this is really good.

Certified organic since 1998, Bertrand and Hélène Gautherot are trying to work with a minimalist intervention and let the terroir speaks. All champagnes are vinified and raised in barrels and once in the glass, need time.
No acidification, no collage or cold stabilisation. Some SO2 is used only during the harvest and nothing afterwards. Of course indigenous yeast is used.