Monday, May 3, 2010

A dinner with a Master of Burgundy: Clive Coates

Clive was staying with us at home for 3 days in Chicago. I set up a dinner in his honor last Tuesday, even though it was a root day :)

Clive passed his Master of wine in 1971 and has been a wine merchant for a long time. The, as we all know, he wrote what is, in my opinion, The reference, the Bible of Burgundy: Côte D'Or: A Celebration of the Great Wines of Burgundy.


A revised edition, with a new section on Chablis has also been released: The wines of Burgundy.
Those 2 books are the only ones I need when I'm looking for any information on Burgundy.


We asked our friends who were joining the dinner to bring a bottle of Burgundy to share.

A few of the wines we had:



  • 1990 Dom Perignon

  • 1998 Pol Roger, Winston Churchill

  • 1990 Clos de Tart

  • 1998 Chambertin, Rousseau

  • 1998 Chambertin Clos de Beze, Bruno Clair

  • 1998 DRC Romanee St Vivant

  • 2001 Confuron-Cotetidot, Gevrey Lavaux St Jacques

  • 2001 Montrachet, M Coutoux

  • 2002 Corton Charlemagne, Girardin

  • 1996 Dugat Py, Petite Chapelle

  • 1995 Chambolle Charmes, G Barthod

  • 1999 Corton Renardes, M Delarche

  • 1996 Chevalier Montrachet, Leflaive

  • 2000 MSD, Dujac

  • 1991 Gouges, NSG Vaucrains

  • 2001 Chambolle, Mugnier

  • 2003 Leroy, Savigny Les Ratausses

  • 1997 Mikulski, Meursault Genevrieres

  • 2006 Simmonet Febvre, Les Clos

  • 2000 Corton Rognet, Ambroise

  • 2003 Charmes Chambertin, N Potel

  • 1985 Albert Morot, Beaune Bressandes

  • 1988 Albert Morot, Beaune Bressandes

  • 2007 Pernand Les Combottes, Rapet

  • 2002 Chassagne Les Vergers, Jean-Marc Pillot

  • 2007 Puligny Les Luzins, Marc Colin

It was a pleasure to drink with Clive and listen to his stories.



A great dinner with friends, bottles being passed around....exactly what wine is about.
Among Clive favorites, a pair of 1998s: Rousseau Chambertin and the Bruno Clair Clos de Beze and a wonderful and elegant 1990 Clos de Tart. Indeed, simply awesome wines!
But plenty of other wines showed very well, despite the root day: the 95 Barthod, the 2001 Confuron Cotetidot and a wonderful 1991 Gouges Vaucrains now at its peak.
2 big disapointments: a corked Dugat-Py and an unspiring Montrachet from Coutoux...oh well, even this was not enough to spoil a great evening!


The next day, Clive proposed to cook dinner for us. How can you say no to someone with culinary training?!!
A very good dover sole, enjoyed with Clive, my wife and 4 other friends. After the previous night fest and also to pair along our dinner, refreshing whites were in order.
We started with a perfect Michel Arnould Reserve Champagne.
Then we moved to a beautiful, balanced 2007 Clos des Briords VV Muscadet from Marc Ollivier. Mineral,refreshing. Very fine.

We quickly forgot a corked 2004 Raveneau MontMains (although I wonder why this has to happen with a Dugat-Py and Raveneau and not with an Argentinian malbec..). To replace it, we opened a great 1996 Chassagne Montrachet Les Champgains from Michel Niellon. At its peak now.
Also opened a 2002 Excelsior Clos du Poyet muscadet from Luneau-Papin. I have to admit that this wine did nothing for me.
A 2002 Deiss Engelgarten impressed me with its minerality and focus and a very good 2002 Dr. Bürklin Wolf Ruppertsberger Gaisböhl Riesling trocken.
Because no meal is complete without a red wine (not really but that's the only lame excuse I found), we opened a 1995 Dominique Laurent Volnay Caillerets with now the oak integrated and an absolutely wonderful 2004 Chambolle Musigny from Fourrier.

Beyond the wines which were very good, the company was even better. Really, what more can you ask than having good friends, good laughs when sharing good wine and food.
It was a delight to listen to Clive stories, parts of his life, Burgundian adventures...and much more!

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