Thursday, August 12, 2010

Domaine de la Bongran- Jean Thévenet: It does not get any better in Clessé

Domaine de la Bongran consists of 15 hectares spread throughout the foot of the Quintaine hills in the Mâconnais. The name of the area "Bongran" originally comes from "bongrain" (a wine with good origins comes from a good grain).
In Quintaine, the terroir is composed of Oxonian marl and middle and superior Bathonian limestone which at one time was the good fortune of stone cutters for centuries.
The grapes are harvested manually when they are very ripe and, if possible, at the point where they have been affected by noble rot.
The over ripe grapes arrive at the domaine where they are slowly pressed in a pneumatic press. After the must has settled, the juice is transferred to stainless steel tanks or oak barrels where fermentation is initiated slowly with indigenous yeast, finishing 6 to 24 months later.
The wines are bottled before being tasted after ageing for at least several months and sometimes up to 20 years.

Jean Thévenet and his son Gautier are simply making outstanding Viré-Clessé, respecting the tradition of sometimes having a touch of residual sugar. Amazing texture, perfect balance and a capability of ageing for 20 years, nobody, in my opinion, is doing better wine in the area.



This leads to the 1995 Domaine de la Bongran, Cuvée EJ Thevenet Tradition. At the time, the official AOC was just Clessé and became Viré-Clessé in 2002.
Cool golden color. The nose is so inviting and complex: spiced honey, ginger, mango and obvious mineral notes. There is a little bit of residual sugar but this is balanced thanks to the high acidity. More lemon on the palate with a very long nutty finish.
This Clessé after 15 years is so fresh, this is really impressive.

A wine you could drink all day long....

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