Wednesday, September 29, 2010

Don't post if you're drunk

I guess his mom forgot to tell Uncle Bob that he should not post on the web when he's drunk...
Another precious, priceless one liner from his Majesty. This is what he posted after having diner at a Philly restaurant last week:

Parker quote

Wine expert Robert Parker showed up at Bibou, the well-regarded French BYOB in South Philly, last night.

Parker posted this:

•Marcassin Estate chardonnay 2000
•Leuwin Estate 2004 chardonnay
•Guigal 1990 white Hermitage
•Dagueneau 2006 Silex
•Beaux Freres 1994
•Haut Brion 1982
•Vina Tondonia 1976
•Catena Alta 1997 Malbec
•Rostaing 1991 Cote Rotie La Landonne
•Guigal 1991 La Landonne
•Guigal 1985 and 1988 La Mouline
•Guigal 1989 La Landonne
•and a few others
"I loved everything about this place...the quality of the food alone merits a must visit," he wrote. "Add the BYO and no corkage....and better yet...no precious sommelier trying to sell us some teeth enamel removing wine with acid levels close to toxic, made by some sheep farmer on the north side of his 4,000-foot foot elevation vineyard picked two months before ripeness, and made from a grape better fed to wild boar than the human species....we all know the type-saving the world from drinking good wine in the name of vinofreakism.

Ha ! Isn't beautiful? here's uncle Bob giving us lessons on what we should drink.
What do we learn here?
- if you love acidity in your wines, you suck
- if you dare drinking wines that Bobby do not like, you suck
- if you think differently than Bobby, well you still suck
- if you are a sommelier, well you're precious and yes you also suck (you have to love the description of sommelier when you see the kind of wines he drinks...anyway...)
- if you're not Bob, you suck. Period.

When you're a "public" figure, I believe there are things you must not say. We have here a perfect example of someone who feels threaten by all the changes in the wine world and who is losing his authority.
I just can't accept being insulted because I don't have the same tastes. How old is he? 5 ? Coming from someone who has been preaching for diversity in wine that's laughable.

A funny coincidence is that yesterday I was reading an interview of Pascal Delbeck, who knows a thing or two about wines, after being in charge of Ausone for more than 20 years. In this interview, Mr Delbeck makes a very pertinent note:" Mr Parker has a simple taste, very simple taste. So easy that all the oenologues who have money and common sense can make a wine to please him and exploit his taste".

Vive la difference.
I don't have anything to add.

Sunday, September 26, 2010

Ladybug, ladybug...what ladybug?!

Ok, I guess you know what's coming....2004 Burgundy. Whenever there's something wrong in a 2004 Burgundy, it has to be the ladybug. It's vegetal? well it's because of the ladybug. It sucks? well it's again because of the ladybug..

There has been much discussions about the vegetal, green aspects a lot of 2004 Burgundies showed. I think this has influenced, maybe unconsciously, many people and whenever they were drinking, they were actually looking for a greenness in the wine. And if there was one, well it could not be because of a lack of ripeness or anything else. I have to admit that 99% of the 04 Burgs I had were all pretty good. Only average was a Voillot Volnay VV which decided to never open. So much for that ladybug.

Even talking to Clive about it, it seems like it was not really a big issue. Maybe it was US-centric as I also never really read anything about it in the French magazines.

Anyway, everybody is free to its own opinion of this topic and as long I can keep finding crazy deals of closed out Burgs, I could not care less.


So this week, I had a lovely 2004 Roumier Chambolle Musigny. This wine kept getting better over 4 days and showed a beautiful Chambolle character. Balanced, very floral with nice red fruits with a dash of darker fruit as well. Good acidity with the oak being more and more integrated every day. This will be really cool for the mid term drinking.

Maybe the ladybugs never found their way to Christophe's vineyards.... :-)

Monday, September 13, 2010

A few biodynamic wines

While we're enjoying some time off in Southern California, we spent 4 days in San Francisco. I love this city and during our stay I bought a few wines to drink while in Newport Beach. For the 1st time, we went to San Francisco Wine Trading Company. I would really recommend anyone to stop there. Friendly staff and great selection for Provence and Languedoc especially.


Anyway, somehow, the 1st 3 wines we drunk were all issued from biodynamic wineries and were all great wines.




The 1st wine was a wonderful 2001 Marcel Deiss Burlenberg Pinot noir. Grown on limestone soil, this pinot would trick any blind taster and will lead you to Burgundy. I'm usually not a fan of Alsatian pinot noir except for the René Muré Clos St Landelin and this Deiss. There's a great spiciness with an impressive volume on the palate. Bright sherry with some blood orange. Mineral and long, this is drinking really well.
Then, we moved to the 2007 Clos Marie, Coteaux du Languedoc Pic St Loup, Cuvée Manon. Located just north of Montpellier, Christophe Peyrus farms in vineyards biodynamically. Made with typical southern grapes with a majority of grenache blanc (40%) and roussanne (30%) completed with clairette, maccabeu and carignan blanc. Raised in barrels, this shows a perfect balance and the wood is now completely integrated. Lovely nose with lemon, pear and mandarin. Hint of anise mixed with floral notes. Slightly nutty as well. Touch of fresh butter. Fat on the palate but with a surprising acidity and freshness. Only 12.5%. The most surprising thing in this wine is the incredible freshness. I was impressed. Bravo !
To finish our biodynamic journey, a superb 2008 Bott-Geyl Riesling Les Elements was sacrificed. Started very steely and mineral on the nose. Very lemony with grapefruit and floral notes with a touch of petrol. Very enjoyable nose. Almost dry, soft with very good acidity. Green apple. It's a little simple on the palate right now. Really easy to drink. Very nice wine.

While biodynamic practices do not assure great wines, this was the case here. Careful and thoughtful winemaking leading to balanced and low alcohol wines.

Friday, September 3, 2010

Selosse and Huet: masters of their domain

To start my Bday dinner, my wife prepare some pasta dough and created some Lemon ravioli. This is a great dish and we needed 2 whites to go along. A friend brought the 1996 Huet Le Mont Sec and I opened a Selosse Initiale (disgorged nov 2007).


I was super excited to try an aged Huet as all the ones I had were only 2 to 4 years old. This turned out to be a great experience. The Huet showed a rich nose with honey, pumpkin, quince with hint of flint. Dry, borderline of having a touch of RS, the high acidity gives the wine plenty of energy in spite of its fatness. Lemony honey with the slightest hint of oxidation. What I loved was the Chenin character.

The Selosse, as always was a unique experience. This bottle was more oxidative than the last one I had. The nose was stunning and complex. The oak is so well used. You feel like drinking a white Burgundy (with a hint of Jura in this bottle !). There's a strong minerality associated with ripe fruits.

Both wines were perfect with the lemon raviolis. But even more interesting maybe was that the 2 wines showed similar characteristics: oxidative notes, richness, high acidity and minerality. I would not have thought about it before but the luck of drinking those 2 wines side by side opened my eyes.

I will always keep learning....