Wednesday, May 5, 2010

Can it get any better?

I've never been a big believer in pairings. While there are certainly some food to avoid with certain wines (or vice-versa) in general the wine works out pretty well with any food (yeah right, of course don't try a stupid 17% Zin with a delicate fish...but you get the picture).
Maybe on one or two occasions did I found the wine-food pairing really compelling. Like for example, that crazy 1959 Rivesaltes from Domaine Vila with a chocolate tart. In this case, all the flavors were in symbiosis. I remember thinking, wow, this is pure heaven. They are meant for each others ! But, really, how many times has it happened? Yes, exactly, not that often...
But this week, a Macle miracle happened...


Two months ago, while in New-York, we bought some 4 years old Gouda. So when I saw the 2005 Cotes du Jura Jean Macle at Crush, I immediately thought about that Gouda...and boy what a pairing ! The nuttiness and pungent flavors of the aged gouda completed the curry and oxidative notes of this spectacular Cotes du Jura. What I loved in this wine is that the oxidative notes are not over the top. The wine is fresh, nice fruit and very complex. To give you an idea of the acidity in that wine, the pH is 3.06 !!

This wine is made from 85% chardonnay and 15% savagnin grown on a calcareous clay soil. Rather young vines (20 years), no insecticides, pesticides...Totally natural...Both the alcoholic fermentation and the MLF are done in cuves. Then the wines are aged separately in pièces (i.e. 228l barriques) usually for a minimum of 2 years (even though the 2005 was raised for 18 months sous voile). The pièces are not filled to the top and develop the famous voile (thin yeast layer on top of the wine).

The chardonnay and savagnin assemblage (blend) is made after the Macles taste every barrels. It is very interesting to note that several bottlings (mise en bouteille) occur during the year. The code on the bottle indicates which bottling it corresponds to (on my bottle, code was L.07.05).

I'm looking forward to taste the 2007 version since Laurent (Mr Macle son) vinified the wine in a non oxidative style. But what will we drink then with our gouda? :-))

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