Recently I had the luck to drink many great wines but one in particular stood out: a 1997 Château Sainte Anne Bandol.
The domain has been family operated for more than 5 generations and the wine is now made by Françoise Dutheil de la Rochère. Saint Anne is among the 1st ones in Bandol to operate towards the natural movement (native yeast, organic etc...). They have the luck to be on a rather cold terroir, north oriented. Yes, indeed this is a luck in Bandol where it is hard to keep the freshness needed in the wines.
A high percentage of cinsault (20%) is completed with grenache (20%) and mourvèdre (60%). Harvest is done manually and all grapes are destemmed. Following the cuvaison (around 12 days), a long elevage takes place in large oak foudres (50 Hl).
This 1997 was reduced at first and needed to be decanted. It showed plenty of red and dark cherry, old leather, mineral and floral notes. More fresh licorice, sweet violet and tobacco. Very complex and very Burgundian. You can close your eyes and see Beaune even though you have your feet in the Mediterranean...
What a great Bandol.
